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绔炵寽绡僵 :倫敦時裝周:用圖案講故事

篮球竞彩nba www.xvrnl.com   Prints That Tell a Story

  倫敦時裝周:用圖案講故事

  LONDON — Digital patterns, painterly brushstrokes, mighty splodges and tiny images — British fashion has made a reputation for “all the new that’s fit to print.”

  倫敦——數碼圖案、仿佛油畫筆刷出的色彩、強有力的大色塊和細小的圖案——英倫時尚以其“適于印染的一切新概念”博得了名聲。

  That mantra defines opening days of a joyous and colorful London Fashion Week. The summer 2013 shows vibrate with pattern, but with a fresh story line: the narrative print, telling a tale in tiny pictures.

  這一條準則在充滿歡樂與色彩的倫敦時裝周頭幾天里也得到了詮釋。2013年的夏裝展躍動著各式圖案,并且貫穿著一條嶄新的線索:那就是敘述性的圖案,用小小的圖畫講述一個個故事。

  倫敦2013春/夏系列當中的Matthew Williamson、Sister by Sibling以及Topshop Unique。

  Even Matthew Williamson’s show Sunday, celebrating his label’s 15th birthday, had digital landscape prints of the Indian state of Kerala, inspired by the New York artist Shane McAdams, to contrast with the clothing’s full-on Indian inspirations. The more colorful tie-dye effects, as though from the powders thrown around in India’s Holi celebrations, bled vivid shades onto simple clothes like white pants.

  星期天,就連馬修·威廉姆森(Matthew Williamson)慶祝品牌15周年生日的那場秀上,也都出現了印度喀拉拉邦的數碼風景圖,圖案受到紐約藝術家沙恩·麥克亞當斯(Shane McAdams)的啟發,和該服裝上完全來自印度的靈感相呼應。色彩豐富的扎染效果仿佛是在印度胡里節(Holi)慶典里四處撒出的彩粉,給白褲子這樣簡單的服飾也添上生動的色塊。

  Since his early hippie de luxe days, with inspirations from Ibiza and Kerala, Mr. Williamson’s approach has become more sophisticated — give or take a re-run of Rajasthan mirror embroidery. And he included in this anniversary collection his first footwear designs: shoes with heels and platform soles carved into undulating shapes or made of thick rubber.

  從他早期華美的嬉皮歲月至今,威廉姆森的手法變得越發圓熟,這一次的服裝系列受到伊維薩島和喀拉拉邦風情的啟發,在拉賈斯坦邦風格的對稱刺繡中游刃有余。此外,在這一次的周年系列中,他還帶來了他的第一款鞋類設計:有高跟鞋和平底鞋,底部或塑造成波浪形,或用厚橡膠制成。

  Did a new sophisticated feel suit the Topshop girls, sitting front row at the Topshop Unique show on Sunday? And how did the two million-plus views watching the live-streamed show judge it?

  這樣一種全新的成熟味道是否也適合Topshop的女孩們呢?在周日Topshop Unique的時裝秀上,她們就坐在前排。而觀看視頻直播的那兩百多萬人次,又是如何看待的呢?

  “We tried to raise the bar,” said Philip Green, the founder of Topshop. He meant by that a move away from the kooky and funky toward elegant tailoring and graphic patterns, picking up the 1990s vibe that is pulsating faintly through the summer 2013 shows.

  “我們想要提升格調,”Topshop的創始人菲利普·格林(Philip Green)說。他指的是擺脫以往的乖僻狂野風格,向優雅的剪裁和平面圖案靠攏,重拾20世紀90年代的感覺,而這也是在整場2013年夏裝秀當中一道隱隱跳動的脈搏。

  Although there were dresses in transparent fabrics with blocks of opaque fabric to provide modesty, the show was noticeably unsexy — more an offering of oversized duster coats and geometric patterns, designed as if on a grid.

  盡管在展示中也出現了一些透明面料的衣服,縫上幾塊不透明的布料作遮掩,使其顯得稍為端莊一些,但可以看出,這場展覽并不性感——更多地是展示一些特大號的罩衫外套,上面的幾何圖案仿佛是在一個方格圖上設計的一樣。

  Black, white, yellow and bright navy, with a touch of powder pink, were the only noticeable colors, making this the most “grown-up” look from the Unique label — but not necessarily the most dynamic.

  黑、白、黃和明亮的海軍藍,稍稍添上一點粉紅,便是當中能察覺到的全部顏色,讓這一系列成為Unique品牌當中最有“成熟感”但卻并不一定是最有活力的造型。

  When Sister by Sibling sent out its quirky designs in knit and feathery fluff, one image came to the fore: a new version of the French toile de jouy. Little people were printed on, but not in, noble battle scenes or pastoral pictures. Instead, the trio of designers pictured urban London scenes — of riots.

  Sister by Sibling展出了以編織物和松軟絨毛為質材的奇特設計,服裝上呈現出全新版本的法式“toile de jouy”印花。貴族的決斗場面或是田園風光的圖畫上印著小人圖案,不過小人是蓋在圖畫上面,而不是作為圖畫當中的人物。另外,品牌的三位設計師還用圖畫展示了倫敦都市暴動時的場面。

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