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浠婃棩nba绡僵* :餐后閑談時光:西班牙餐桌上的特色習俗

篮球竞彩nba www.xvrnl.com   A uniquely Spanish part of the meal

  餐后閑談時光:西班牙餐桌上的特色習俗

  Spain is a country in love with food, renowned for everything from tapas to trailblazing chefs to simple, elegant recipes that have endured for generations. So it may seem counterintuitive, perhaps even heretical, to say that the most important thing about a Spanish lunch is not the food. But it’s true.

  西班牙是個鐘愛美食的國家,其飲食文化樣樣出名,比如作為前菜的各類塔帕斯(tapas)、不斷推陳出新的大廚們、以及代代相傳簡單而又精致的菜譜等。若是說一頓西班牙式午餐最重要的部分并不是吃,聽起來是不是有點有悖常理,甚至怪邪乎的?但事實的確如此。

  Before you spill your gazpacho, let me say that Spanish people don’t take the food part of lunch lightly; far from it. As a Spaniard in love with food in general, and lunch in particular, I for one approach the subject of where to eat with the same level of thought and research that some people put into buying a new car. Of course, I want to know whether the food is good – but I also want to know whether it’s going to be a comfortable place to spend a few hours. Steady yourselves foodies; but in Spain the purpose of going out for lunch isn’t just eating, it’s catching up with friends or family, telling stories and laughing away the stress caused by things that, with a little perspective, you come to realise don’t matter anyway. If all you want is food, you might as well stay at home and order in.

  看到這里,你們先別急著驚訝噴飯,且聽我把話說完。西班牙人對于午餐的食物部分可絲毫不含糊,甚至可以說是十分上心。西班牙人普遍愛美食,其中又極其看重午餐。以我自己為例,一談到去哪里吃飯,我思慮之多,研究之廣,可不亞于一些人買輛新車做的前期功課。我必會在意哪里的食物是否可口,但同時我也關切餐廳本身是否足夠舒適,能讓我們輕松地呆上好幾個鐘頭。諸位吃貨們,對我接下來說的可別大跌眼鏡哦!在西班牙,外出午餐并不光是去吃飯,而是與家人朋友聚聚,閑話家常,自在談笑,將煩惱壓力一掃而空。午餐時談天說地之時,你會發現所謂的煩惱憂愁,其實都無關緊要。若你覺得吃午餐只是為了填飽肚子,那你大可以在家點個外賣吃好了。

  Food matters a lot in Spain, but the social aspect of it matters even more. Lunch, for example, doesn’t end when people can’t eat another bite. That’s when the sobremesa starts. There is no equivalent word in English, though the concept is simple: sobremesa is the time you spend at the table after you’ve finished eating. Usually, there’s laughter involved, and almost always the kind of easy, convivial conversation that only the pleasures of a big meal can inspire.

  食物對西班牙人來說當然也很重要,但他們更看重的是餐飲的社交屬性。以午餐為例,它并非結束于"吃"這個動作,吃完只是意味著西班牙語中"sobremesa"的開始。西語中"sobremesa"一詞在英語中沒有對應的單詞,但它的意思其實很簡單,它指的是飯罷餐畢仍在桌前停留的輕松閑聊時光。馬拉加(Málaga)大都會飯店(La Cosmopolita)的主廚卡內羅(Dani Carnero)說:"就個人角度而言,'sobremesa'(飯罷餐畢繼續在桌前停留的時光,此文中中文譯作'餐后閑談時光')是一種基本需求。"大都會是西班牙最出名的飯店之一。

  “On a personal level, the sobremesa is fundamental,” said Dani Carnero, chef at La Cosmopolita in Málaga, where Spain’s best chefs, including Ferran Adrià, Joan Roca, José Andrés and Andoni Luis Aduriz, go to eat when they’re in town.

  西班牙最好的廚師像是阿德里亞(Ferran Adrià)、羅卡(Joan Roca)、安德魯斯(José Andrés)、阿杜瑞茲(Andoni Luis Aduriz)等人都常光臨這家飯店。

  “As a chef, when I see people spending time at the table after lunch, I feel that it’s a sign that everything has gone well, but oftentimes people enjoy themselves even more than during the meal itself. The sobremesa can be magical.”

  他同時說道,"作為一名廚師,若看到餐后人們仍在桌前聊天,我認為這表示一切都進展順利。通常,大家享受相處的時光多過于享受美食本身。'餐后閑談時光'可是很有魔力的。"

  When I moved to Madrid from Zaragoza, I got in touch with Ben Curtis, a British blogger who has lived in Spain for 20 years and has probably taught more people about Spanish customs than anyone else. We’d been emailing about things related to Spanish culture for some time, but we’d never met, so I suggested we go out for a beer. He wisely suggested we go out for lunch instead. It went so well that we’ve been having lunch more or less once a week for the past six years. And by lunch I don’t mean a sandwich at a food court or a fast-food burger, but a proper sit-down, three-course Spanish lunch. With wine, naturally. If there’s a better way to form a friendship than having long lunches on a regular basis, I’d like to know about it. 紐約時報中英文網 //www.xvrnl.com

  幾年前,從薩拉戈薩(Zaragoza)搬到馬德里(Madrid)后,我約筆友柯蒂斯(Ben Curtis)見面。他是一名英國籍的博客主,在西班牙居住了20多年。他對西班牙習俗了如指掌,并且通過博客向各方介紹。我們通電郵談西班牙文化已經有段時間,不過一直未曾見過面,因此我約他出去喝個啤酒。但他很明智地建議道,要不我們一起吃午餐吧!這次經歷非常愉快。此后的六年里,我們幾乎每周都要約上一次午餐。我這里說的"午餐"可不是在美食廣場隨便啃個三明治或是快餐漢堡,而是正正經經地坐下來,有三道菜且通常配餐酒的西班牙式午餐。常常一起吃午飯,并且一吃好幾個小時,我不認為世間還有任何方式比這更有助于維系友情的了。

  In my experience, avant-garde food doesn’t lend itself to a good sobremesa because too much attention gets devoted to the food itself. That’s why I prefer classic, unpretentious casas de comida, or family restaurants, where the food is home-style, made from well-cooked, simple ingredients. I know Ben feels the same way because we have often explored this important subject in leisurely chats after robust meals, the white tablecloth sprinkled with breadcrumbs and splotched with red-wine stains. My informal research suggests that the better the food, the better the sobremesa; but tellingly, you can eat mediocre food and still have a great lunch if you’re with the right company.

  從我個人經驗來看,一頓極其奢華豐盛的餐食可并不一定能夠帶來非常美好的"餐后閑談時光",因為太過豐盛的餐食會讓人們更關注食物本身。這也是為何我更青睞在西班牙傳統餐廳或家庭餐廳來一頓經典而又樸實無華的午餐。這類餐廳的食物更加貼近家庭烹飪,食材簡單,但制作用心??碌偎褂Ω猛業南敕ㄒ謊?。我們總是一頓饕餮酒足飯飽后,在白色桌布上散滿面包屑,沾染紅酒污漬的桌旁閑聊,共同探討此類重要的話題。就我個人非正式探究,一般來講,飯菜越美味,餐后的閑談時光越美好。但這也非絕對,如果食物一般,但是吃飯的伴兒合拍,午餐也將十分愜意。

  There are only a few guidelines to sobremesa. Most important is that nobody gets up from the table ­– urgent necessities excluded, of course. You have to stay at the table where you ate, amid the post-lunch wreckage of crumpled napkins, stray packets of sugar and the last pieces of dessert that may or may not get eaten. Sobremesa is about prolonging the lunch because you’ve had such a good time that you don’t want it to end; if you leave the table, the spell is broken.

  關于"餐后閑談時光",有一些指導原則要遵守。其中最重要的一條是,除非有緊急特殊情況,否則不能離開餐桌。用餐者必須待在餐桌旁,即便置身于用餐后揉成一團的紙巾堆、撕開的調料包裝袋、吃剩的餐后甜點這樣的杯盤狼藉中,都不能起身離開。"餐后閑談時光"本質上就是有意拖延時間,因為午餐時光太美好,你會希望時間能就此駐足。但若是你起身離開了,那餐后美好時光也就完了。

  The warm atmosphere of the sobremesa can often lead to conversations that you might not have otherwise, the ones that start like, “You’ve inspired me to…” or “I’ve been wanting to say how much it means to me that you…”. But it’s also the natural habitat of the comedian. Jokes never land better than when the listener is well fed and, ideally, a little bit tipsy. All you have to do is say something remotely funny, and even if you mess it up you’ll likely still get a laugh. Actually, especially if you mess it up. My mother has a habit of telling jokes and erupting into infectious, uncontainable laughter long before she gets to the punchline. The jokes aren’t always that funny, but her delivery absolutely kills every time.<-->紐約時報中英文網 //www.xvrnl.com<-->

  "餐后閑談時光"中營造的溫馨氛圍通常也會引出一些可能你平日里說不出口的話,像是"你知道嗎?你曾激勵我……";"我一直沒機會說,但之前你對我所做的對我來說意義有多么重大……"等。這種情境也是喜劇演員的天然演練場。說笑話最好的對象莫過于酒足飯飽的聽眾。若是聽眾還有點微醺就再好不過了。此時說個笑話,即便說砸了,也能引得對方捧腹一笑。其實,沒講好的笑話反而有笑點。我媽媽就特愛說笑話,通?;姑壞蕉棟さ牡?,她就自己狂笑起來,特別有感染力。她講的笑話其實并不是那么好笑,但她的表達方式總是讓時光過得特別快。

  The sobremesa often lasts as long as the meal itself – sometimes, if it’s going well, even longer. I was born in the south of Spain, where the blazing hot summers encourage particularly epic sobremesas. Going outside would be madness, so it’s best to stay put. In my family’s luncheon lore, my favourite story is about a lunch my father once had with a good friend where the sobremesa lasted so long they eventually got hungry again and stayed for dinner. I have yet to achieve the lunch-dinner double, a feat that I like to call the Legendary Enchainment, but one day, one day.

  "餐后閑聊時光"可能跟吃飯本身一樣久,甚至有時候更長。我在西班牙南部地區長大,那里的炎炎夏日總是讓"餐后閑聊時光"異常地長久。因為外面熱到爆炸,所以特別鼓勵人們享受悠長的室內餐后閑聊。我們家族的午餐故事中我最喜歡的是,有一次我父親和他朋友一起吃午餐,他們"餐后閑聊時光"聊得實在太久,以至于他們最后聊餓了,結果留下來再吃了頓晚飯。我目前還沒體味過這種"午餐晚飯連軸吃"的樂趣。我稱之為一種"神奇的羈絆",這太叫人神往了。我相信總有一天我也會擁有的。

  Of course, the all-day lunch is not an everyday occurrence. The long sobremesa is a fixture on occasions such as birthdays and anniversaries and Sundays with the family. But even during the week, many people still take the time to have a big lunch, and when it’s finished nobody is in too much of a hurry to leave. While it’s not unheard of to have a sobremesa after dinner, it’s more of an afternoon event. They say that having a big lunch instead of a big dinner is healthier, but that’s probably just a happy coincidence. Lunch is just more fun.

  這種花上大半天的午餐并不是日日都能有的。耗時較長的"餐后閑聊時光"基本上是生日、紀念日、與家人共度周末等場合里的必有部分。但是在周日期間,大家還是能抽時間去享受一頓豐盛的午餐,飯罷餐后也不會急著離開。一般來說,晚餐的"餐后閑聊時光"聞所未聞。"餐后閑聊時光"大多發生在下午。大家普遍認為一頓豐盛的午餐益于健康而晚餐不宜太過豐盛。但或許這只是一個美妙的巧合。比起晚餐,午餐總是更樂趣十足。

  I like a big lunch so much that, even when I don’t have the time for it, I like seeing people having a big lunch. I’ll be on some mundane errand and turn the corner and glance through the window of a neighbourhood restaurant, and there’s a table of four older ladies, laughing and gossiping as a waiter in a bow tie serves them their decaf coffees. Sometimes, especially on a holiday, you’ll see a table of 15 or 20 men, raucous and into their second round of sobremesa gin and tonics, singing songs and generally being too loud, but having such a good time you can’t help but smile. Children have pretty much free reign during the sobremesa since the parents are enjoying themselves too much to do any effective policing. It’s a win-win for all concerned.

  我太愛豐盛午餐這項活動了。即使有時我自己沒時間參與,看著別人吃午餐也是一種享受。素日忙些閑事的間隙,我會拐角到附近的餐廳去窺一窺別人的午餐。一桌坐著四位老太太,她們在一起聊八卦,笑得樂呵呵。打著領結的服務生在一旁給她們的杯子里續上無因咖啡。偶爾,特別是在假日時候,我還能看到一桌子的大男人們,他們十幾20來號人,坐在桌前,喧嘩著笑鬧著,享受"餐后閑聊時光"。他們酒過二巡,大聲唱歌。即便稍微有點吵鬧,看到此情此景,旁人也會忍不住會心微笑。大人們在享受"餐后閑聊時光"時,基本上不會太多干涉他們的孩子,這時候小孩子就樂得"為所欲為"。這對大家來說,真是各得其所。

  You could look at lunch in Spain as just an excuse for a sobremesa. As excuses go, it’s a pretty good one. The food is almost always superb, which is, when you think about it, a nice bonus.

  在西班牙,你可以把吃飯當做是想要享受"餐后閑聊時光"時的借口。若有借口,就盡情去享受吧!何況西班牙的食物也是超美味的,不妨把美食當作額外的驚喜。

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